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Native & Deer-Resistant Plantings in Southampton, NY
Free quotes for native & deer-resistant plantings in Southampton, NY.
Deer-resistant native plantings in Southampton, NY are screens, borders and meadows built from Long Island natives that Rutgers rates A (Rarely Damaged) or B (Seldom Severely Damaged) for deer, and that stand up to sandy soil and salt spray, the salt that onshore wind and fog carry inland. They matter here because of deer, sand and water. NYS DEC recorded a 2023 deer take of 2,637 in Suffolk County's management unit; the soils drain fast over a sole-source aquifer, the only source of Long Island's drinking water; and the Town of Southampton caps fertilized vegetation, planting that needs irrigation or fertilizer to survive, at 15 percent of a lot in its Aquifer Protection Overlay District (Town Code section 330-68). Rutgers says no plant is deer proof, and that C and D plants, hydrangeas and American arborvitae among them, need fencing or other protection.
Typical published range
$6 to $15 per linear foot of deer fence (Angi, national, May 2026); $25 to $85 per shrub planted (HomeGuide, February 2026)
No survey we cite prices a meadow or a native planting as a whole, or any Long Island job, so national figures price the parts. HomeGuide (February 2026) gives shrub planting at $25 to $85 per shrub, from $25 to $35 for a 1-foot plant to $65 to $85 for a 4-foot plant. Angi (May 2026) gives deer fence, a tall woven-wire or mesh barrier that keeps deer out, at $6 to $15 per linear foot. The Bureau of Labor Statistics put the national mean wage for landscaping and groundskeeping workers at $20.33 an hour in May 2025. New York's Publication 862 lists planting or replacing perennials, shrubs and trees, and installing a permanent fence, as capital improvements, documented on Form ST-124; annuals and maintenance are taxed at Suffolk County's 8.75 percent (Publication 718). In the Peconic Estuary watershed, the Peconic Estuary Partnership's Homeowner Rewards Program offers up to $500 toward a native plant garden. Our cost guide has the full table.
The plant list starts from two sources: the Rutgers deer ratings and the salt-spray list Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County published for eastern Long Island in May 2013. For screens we use American holly (A); pitch pine (A), a native pine with three needles per bundle and an open habit; bayberry (A), a native shrub that forms mounded stands; eastern red cedar (B); and inkberry (B), a native evergreen holly that is susceptible to black root rot. For borders, arrowwood viburnum (A) and winterberry (B). For grasses, little bluestem (A), a native grass 1 to 3 feet tall, and switchgrass (A), another Long Island native; together they anchor a meadow, a planting of native grasses and wildflowers mowed once a year. Bearberry (A) is the low native groundcover on CCE Suffolk's list. Informal screens are planted wider than sheared hedges and allowed to grow together, as Colorado State University's hedge fact sheet describes, so each shrub reaches its natural width.
Planting follows the freeze dates: NOAA's 1991-2020 normals give Bridgehampton a 50 percent chance that the last spring freeze has passed by April 23 and that the first fall freeze arrives by October 24. Near water, the rules come first. The Town requires a wetlands permit for regulated work within 200 feet of a wetland (section 325-6A), and its administrative-permit list keeps fertilized planting at least 75 feet landward of the wetland boundary (section 325-7B(3)); the Village requires a permit to clear, landscape or fertilize within 125 feet of a wetland (section 116-19.2E). Our rules guide sets out those limits. New York's invasive species rule, Part 575, prohibits selling, buying, transporting or introducing species such as border privet and Japanese barberry, and regulated species such as burning bush and Chinese silver grass may not be knowingly introduced into a free-living state, so neither kind goes into a meadow or woodland edge.
Salt and sand decide which natives thrive, and water decides how they are kept. CCE Suffolk's list names bayberry, beach plum (Prunus maritima, a native shrub it marks susceptible to black rot), inkberry, pitch pine and bearberry among salt-spray tolerant natives, and warns that moderately tolerant plants such as eastern red cedar may show tip dieback or reduced growth. The sandy Plymouth and Carver soils NRCS describes on Long Island drain excessively and are acid; Carver's usual cover is scrub oak, pitch pine and eastern white pine, so we keep soils lean and acid rather than amend them for a lawn. A new planting is watered through establishment and then stepped down; once it no longer needs irrigation or fertilizer to survive, it falls outside the Town's definition of fertilized vegetation (section 330-65). Natives need no fertilizer, the Peconic Estuary Partnership notes, and NYS DEC attributes 8 percent of Lake Agawam's nitrogen load to fertilizer and urges buffer plantings beside the lake.
We start with a walk of the lot to map sun, salt exposure, wet ground, deer paths and any wetland or overlay limits, then draw a plan that labels each plant with its Rutgers rating. Hydrangeas or an arborvitae screen either go inside a fence or give way to an A or B rated native, and if privet is the habit, our privet hedge page sets the two side by side. A native plan can stand alone or join our landscape design service. The quote lists plants, sizes, fence footage and establishment watering in writing, with start and completion dates.
Signs your planting needs a deer-resistant rethink
Deer damage leaves a pattern you can read from the terrace: what gets eaten, how high and when. Rutgers rates the plants deer favor C or D, and salt and sand leave marks of their own. These are the conditions that tell us a planting needs new plants, protection or both.
- Hydrangea buds and leaf tips are bitten off in spring, which fits the Rutgers C rating for bigleaf, panicle and smooth hydrangeas.
- An arborvitae screen shows a browse line, bare from the ground up to the height a deer can reach, with a see-through lower band.
- Leaves on the exposed side of a shrub border brown or die back at the tips after onshore storms, the salt injury CCE Suffolk describes.
- A lawn on dry, sandy ground browns each summer even on its odd- or even-day watering schedule.
- Japanese barberry, multiflora rose or oriental bittersweet crowds a woodland edge; New York lists all three as prohibited invasive species under Part 575.
- A privet hedge has gone leggy and bare at the base, and you want a screen that needs less shearing.
Repellents help when applied on a regular 4-week schedule before serious damage starts, Cornell's Putnam County office says, but they are upkeep, not a fix. The lasting answers are plant choice and fencing: A and B rated natives where deer reach, and C and D plants inside a fence.
Rutgers deer ratings for South Fork screens, borders, grasses and perennials
Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station rates landscape plants A, Rarely Damaged; B, Seldom Severely Damaged; C, Occasionally Severely Damaged; or D, Frequently Severely Damaged. Its printable version is publication E271, dated 2003, and the list is kept online. Its guidance: A and B plants suit landscapes prone to deer damage, C and D plants are often preferred by deer and should go in only with protection such as fencing or repellents, and success depends on local deer populations and weather. For screens: American holly (Ilex opaca), A; pitch pine (Pinus rigida), A; bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica), A; eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana), B; inkberry (Ilex glabra), B; and privet, B. For borders and groundcover: arrowwood viburnum, A; bottlebrush buckeye, A; winterberry (Ilex verticillata), B; and bearberry, A.
For grasses: little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium), switchgrass (Panicum virgatum), big bluestem and Indian grass, all A. For perennials and bulbs: butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), B; Christmas fern, cinnamon fern, catmint and daffodil, all A. Rated C: bigleaf, oakleaf, panicle, smooth and climbing hydrangeas; western arborvitae; Leyland cypress; Atlantic white cedar; rhododendrons; rugosa rose; and the Nellie Stevens, blue and Japanese hollies. Rated D: American arborvitae. The list has no separate entry for 'Green Giant' arborvitae, so we do not assign it a rating.
Establishing a South Fork meadow of little bluestem and switchgrass
A meadow suits the open, sunny parts of a lot. Little bluestem anchors it: the USDA NRCS plant guide calls it adapted to soils from sand to clay-loam with moderate drought tolerance, 1 to 3 feet tall, and a colorful, easy-care choice for home landscapes. Switchgrass, butterfly weed, seaside goldenrod, New York aster and butterfly milkweed fill in; the Peconic Estuary Partnership notes that natives give habitat to butterflies, birds and bees and are adapted to pollinators like bees and butterflies. We seed in one of the two windows in New York's pollinator habitat guidelines: mid-April to late May after frost, with more weed competition, or late October to early November before frost, the season the NRCS and Xerces Society guide favors for most native wildflowers.
In the first year we mow occasionally and high, as that guide advises, to keep annual and biennial weeds from setting seed. The state guidelines call for mowing at least once a year, and after establishment the Xerces guide says to mow or burn no more than 30 percent of the habitat in any one year and not during nesting season, so we mow in sections. Little bluestem stays standing through winter for the dusky skipper caterpillars that overwinter in tube tents above the base of its clumps. Meadow also answers a Town rule: where a lot in the Aquifer Protection Overlay District was cleared past its limit, the stop-work order lifts only once the area is revegetated with low maintenance, nonfertilizer species (section 330-69C).
Deer fence on the South Fork: eight feet of woven wire, six-foot code limits
Two extension sources set the standard for a deer fence. Cornell Cooperative Extension in Putnam County calls at least an 8-foot-high woven-wire fence that completely encloses the plants the preferred approach, says fences of 5, 6 or even 7 feet deter deer but do not always exclude them, and warns that deer crawl under or step through rather than jump, so wire spacing is critical. A Rutgers fact sheet (FS889, revised March 2010) calls woven-wire deer fences eight feet high nearly 100 percent effective. Angi (May 2026) gives national costs of $6 to $15 per linear foot, polypropylene mesh at $6 to $10 and galvanized steel at $10 to $15.
Local code cuts across the eight-foot advice. The Town of Southampton caps fences at four feet in a required front yard and six feet in side and rear yards, and section 330-109A(3) says no fence or wall may exceed six feet; the Village sets the same four and six feet in sections 116-18A(1) and (2). We have found no deer-fence exception in the sections we have read, so before quoting more than six feet we confirm the height with the Town's Building and Zoning Division or the Village Building Department. In the Town, fence work within 200 feet of a wetland is on the wetlands administrative-permit list (section 325-7B(1)), and the finished side must face the neighbor (section 330-109A(5)).
Plant around the deer, fence them out, or both
Every deer plan mixes plant choice and protection, and the mix depends on what you want to grow. Rutgers sets the starting rule: A and B plants where deer reach, C and D plants only with protection. The fence height the codes allow sets the other limit.
A and B rated natives, no fence
The whole planting comes from the A and B lists: American holly, pitch pine, bayberry, inkberry and eastern red cedar for screens; little bluestem and switchgrass in the open. Nothing needs a fence, and every screen plant here is on an extension salt-spray or seashore list. The trade-off is the palette, with no hydrangeas or arborvitae, and Rutgers notes that success still depends on local deer numbers and weather.
Fence a garden room for favorites
Hydrangeas, roses and other C and D plants go inside a fenced garden room, a woven-wire enclosure with its own gate, and the rest of the lot is planted from the A and B lists. Inside, you grow what deer prefer. The fence keeps to the six-foot limit unless the building department confirms more, at Angi's national $6 to $15 per linear foot.
Fence the whole property perimeter
On a large lot where most of the planting is rated C or D, a perimeter fence protects everything at once. Angi's national table puts 500 linear feet of 8-foot fence at $4,500 to $11,000, and on the South Fork a perimeter run meets the height caps, the finished-side rule and, near water, the Town's wetlands review. We price it only after the height question is settled.
Questions
Native & Deer-Resistant Plantings FAQs
What plant do deer hate most?
Rutgers does not name one, and it says no plant is deer proof. Its A rating, Rarely Damaged, is the closest answer. On the South Fork, the useful A plants are natives that also appear on Cornell Cooperative Extension's seashore lists: bayberry, American holly, pitch pine and bearberry. Little bluestem and switchgrass are A-rated native grasses. Rutgers also rates daffodil, catmint and common boxwood A, though boxwood carries a blight risk on Long Island. How well any of them holds up, Rutgers adds, depends on local deer populations and the weather.
What plants do deer hate and won't eat?
No plant is off the menu; Rutgers states that no plant is deer proof. What it offers instead is a rating of how often plants are damaged. Plants rated A (Rarely Damaged) and B (Seldom Severely Damaged) are the ones it recommends where deer feed, and C and D plants should go in only with fencing or repellents. For a Southampton screen, that means American holly, pitch pine, bayberry, inkberry and eastern red cedar rather than arborvitae, which Rutgers rates D for the American species and C for the western.
What are the prettiest deer-resistant shrubs?
Pretty is a matter of taste, so here are the shrubs Rutgers rates A (Rarely Damaged) or B (Seldom Severely Damaged) that we reach for on the South Fork: inkberry (B), an evergreen native holly; bayberry (A), a native that forms mounded stands and tolerates salt spray; American holly (A); winterberry (B); arrowwood viburnum (A); bottlebrush buckeye (A); blue mist shrub (A); and bush cinquefoil (A). Hydrangeas rate C, so we plant them inside a fence or leave them out.
When should native plants go in on the South Fork?
Spring and fall. NOAA's 1991-2020 normals give Bridgehampton a 50 percent chance that the last spring freeze has passed by April 23 and that the first fall freeze arrives by October 24. Meadow seed goes down from mid-April to late May or from late October to early November, the windows in New York's pollinator habitat guidelines. On a dune, the USDA NRCS guide gives October 15 to April 1 in the Mid-Atlantic for dormant, bare-root American beachgrass, 12 to 24 inches apart, and dune work near Town beaches can need a Trustees permit.
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